How to Replace Rear Brake Shoes on a 2013 Chevrolet Malibu With Drum Removal Tips

ByMichail

Secure your 2013 Malibu on a level surface and engage the parking brake. Use wheel chocks and jack stands rated for 3 tons-never rely on a hydraulic jack alone. Remove wheels after loosening lug nuts with a 14mm socket. Free stuck drums by applying penetrating lubricant and tapping with a rubber mallet. Replace brake shoes with the shorter (primary) shoe forward and longer (secondary) rear. Anchor shoes securely, install new springs and clips, and guarantee the adjuster lever contacts the secondary shoe. Adjust the star wheel until slight drag occurs when turning the drum-aim for 6 to 12 notches. Confirm final clearance is 0.008 to 0.015 inches. Reinstall drums, torque lug nuts to 80 ft-lbs, then pump the brake pedal for firmness. Test with a low-speed stop to verify even braking. If you notice uneven performance, you’ll soon find how small oversights can lead to common issues like seized adjusters or binding cables.

Notable Insights

  • Secure the vehicle on a level surface, engage the parking brake, and use wheel chocks and jack stands for safety.
  • Remove wheels after loosening lug nuts while the car is on the ground, then apply lubricant and tap drums to free rusted components.
  • Install new brake shoes with the shorter (primary) shoe facing forward and the longer (secondary) shoe to the rear.
  • Adjust brake shoes using the star wheel until slight drag is felt when turning the drum by hand.
  • Test brakes by pumping the pedal and perform a low-speed stop to verify even braking and no pulling.

Secure the Car and Gather Tools for Rear Brake Work

Before you begin, make sure the vehicle is parked on a level surface to prevent any unintended movement. Engage the parking brake firmly-this supports brake safety during initial setup. Next, place wheel chocks against the front tires to eliminate roll risk. Proper tool preparation includes gathering a socket wrench, 10mm and 14mm sockets, a torque wrench calibrated to 80 ft-lbs, brake spring pliers, and a dial caliper for measuring drum wear. Use jack stands rated for at least 3 tons per corner-never rely on a hydraulic jack alone. These steps guarantee stability and reduce injury risk. Confirm all tools are in good condition, with no stripped heads or worn jaws. Brake safety depends on secure car positioning and reliable tools. Proper setup guarantees efficient access to components and maintains control throughout the job.

Remove Wheels and Free Stuck Brake Drums

Start by loosening the lug nuts on each rear wheel with a 14mm socket and breaker bar while the car is still on the ground-this prevents the wheel from spinning and makes removal easier once the vehicle is lifted. Raise the car with a floor jack and secure it on jack stands. Remove the lug nuts completely, then take off the wheels. If the brake drum is stuck, it’s likely due to rust buildup at the hub interface. Apply rust penetration lubricant liberally around the drum’s center bore and let it soak for 10–15 minutes. Tap the outer edge of the drum sharply with a rubber mallet or use controlled drum tapping with a metal hammer around the face near the lug bolts. This helps break the bond without damaging components. The drum should then slide off the spindle.

Install New Rear Brake Shoes Properly

Now that the brake drums are off, you’re ready to install the new rear brake shoes. Begin by confirming brake shoe alignment-each shoe must sit flush against the backing plate, with the primary (shorter) shoe facing forward and the secondary (longer) shoe to the rear. This arrangement guarantees effective friction distribution during braking. Carefully position the shoes onto the anchor pin, then perform complete hardware installation using new retainers, springs, and clips included in the kit. The hold-down springs must snap securely into the backing plate cups, applying consistent tension to prevent vibration. Align the adjuster lever with the secondary shoe’s contact pad to allow future adjustment. Use a brake shoe tool to seat components properly. Make certain all moving parts operate smoothly without binding. Double-check that brake shoe alignment matches factory specifications-misperalignment reduces braking efficiency and accelerates wear.

Adjust Shoes and Reassemble the Drum System

Once the new brake shoes are securely in place, you’ll need to adjust them to guarantee proper drum reinstallation and maximum braking performance. Correct brake adjustment ensures the shoes don’t drag against the drum yet make full contact when the brakes engage. Use a star wheel adjuster or brake spoon to expand the shoes outward until slight drag is felt when rotating the drum by hand. Typically, this occurs at 6 to 12 notches on the adjuster, depending on wear and tolerance. Proper drum alignment is critical-misalignment causes binding or difficulty seating the drum. Align the drum’s guide holes with the backing plate studs, then press straight on without wiggling. Reinstall the retaining hardware and guarantee the adjuster plug is seated. Final brake adjustment should allow smooth drum rotation with minimal clearance-about 0.008 to 0.015 inches between shoe and drum.

Test Brakes and Fix Common Malibu Issues

With the drum reassembled and the adjuster set to the correct clearance, it’s time to verify the system performs as designed. Begin by pumping the brake pedal until firm resistance is achieved-this seats the shoes properly against the drum. Test effectiveness by performing a low-speed stop in a safe, open area. You should feel even deceleration with no pulling to one side. If pulling occurs, check for uneven shoe adjustment or contaminated linings. Common malfunctions in the 2013 Malibu include dragging brakes due to seized adjusters or weak return springs. Inspect the hardware for wear; replace if cracked or corroded. Verify the parking brake cable is not binding-slack should be minimal. A spongy pedal often indicates air in the system; bleed the brakes as needed. Finally, recheck adjustment through the star wheel access hole-shoes should move slightly before resistance builds.

On a final note

You’ve completed the rear brake shoe replacement on your 2013 Chevrolet Malibu. The brake drums should rotate freely with minimal drag. Confirm shoe adjustment by turning the star wheel until slight resistance occurs, then back off slightly. Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts to 100 lb-ft. Test brakes at low speed before normal driving. Properly adjusted brakes guarantee peak stopping distance and pad life.

Hey there, fellow car lovers! I’m Michail, the heart behind TheCarResource.com, and I’m just a regular guy who’s totally obsessed with cars—not just driving them, but understanding them, caring for them, and keeping them looking sharp. My journey started with a beat-up old hatchback that needed more than just a tune-up—it needed love. That’s when I first dipped my hands into car detailing, learning the magic of wax, clay bars, and the satisfaction of a flawless finish.
I’ve always been the kind of person who enjoys the little things—the feel of a clean microfiber cloth, the shine of freshly polished chrome, the precision of a good detailing tool. I’m not an expert, but I’m passionate, and I’ve spent years collecting tips, testing products, and sharing what works (and what doesn’t) along the way.
TheCarResource.com is my way of sharing that journey with you—no fancy jargon, just real talk from someone who’s been there, wiped down a dashboard, and scratched a paint job by accident. It’s about empowering car owners like us to care for our rides with confidence, curiosity, and a little elbow grease. Because a well-loved car isn’t just a machine—it’s a reflection of the passion we put into it.

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